Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Monday, June 8, 2009

OMAHA BEACH REVISITED

Over ten years ago we drove to Omaha Beach through the small back roads of France. It was a delightful countryside. We were headed for the 1944 D-Day landing beaches of Normandy, France. Along the way we were surprised to see a number of small German, French, English and Australian World War I cemeteries . Each site was meticulously cared for. The larger cemeteries often contained a plain concrete building with dark windows. I  found out later that these were Ossuary building or a "bone repository" for the unclaimed skeletal remains from the Great War's battlefields.

These small roadside cemeteries cast a rather disquieting spell over our touring group. The collection of international roadside grave plots in France were too close in a timeline to Omaha Beach. European history suddenly comes alive and you remember that all of France was a war zone. By comparison, the U.S. seems relatively untouched. There are major battlefield sites, like Gettysburg, or the Little Big Horn, but they are separated by geography and a more distant past. Memorial Day was a big deal when we were young. I remember a silent parade to the local cemetery. We shuffled along to a drum cadence wearing our Scout uniform to plant flags by the veteran's grave sites.

It was dusk when we arrived at Omaha Beach, the tide was out and the only sound was the surf. Hunks of concrete stuck out of the sand. We noticed the beautiful green velvet hills in the distance as we walked on the beach. There was no one else in sight.

LANDING ON OMAHA BEACH

Compare this U.S. Coast Guard photo of soldiers disembarking from a Landing Craft on the morning of June 6, 1944 with the more recent Omaha Beach photo in color. Through the smoke and battle haze you can see hillside as a reference point. There were films of the D-Day landing. One of the most effective depictions of this historic event is the opening sequence of Steven Spielberg's film Saving Private Ryan.

Another very dramatic recreation of the landing can be seen at the Cantigny War Museum in Illinois. You, the viewer, are seated in a landing craft similar to the WWII version. The front of the craft is a rear-projection screen that shows newsreel footage of the landing. When the war footage ends, the front of the landing craft lifts and you walk out onto a life-sized section of Omaha Beach with appropriate battle sounds, smoke, wreckage and bodies. 

EXPLAINING OMAHA BEACH

New museums, monuments, conferences, tours, signage and exhibits about the D-Day landing are added each year. As the number of old soldiers who landed at Omaha Beach declines, the interest in what happened there continues to grow. The metal plaque above the beach shows in simple terms who landed where.

THE AMERICAN CEMETERY AT COLLEVILLE ON OMAHA BEACH.

The 172.5 acres at Colleville contains the graves of 9,387 of our military dead, most of whom lost their lives in the D-Day landings and ensuing operations. The graves face westward, towards the United States. The linear placement of each Marble Cross or Star of David is precise. As the shadows on the grass lengthen from this vast collection of individual graves, so many markers, so perfectly aligned, it is impossible to remain unmoved. Your eyes fill with tears.